Goodbye to Barbie dolls: Maison Margiela Ushers in the Era of the porcelain
Over the years, fashion shows have evolved from simple runway walks into grand, all-encompassing displays of creativity and theatrics. From set and walkway designs to the music employed, all these themes are intended to evoke the right emotions the outfits would give when worn. A true work of art.
In January 2024, John Gilliano sent the fashion world reeling with the Maison Margiela Spring Couture Collection, a fashion show that can be defined as a masterclass in theatricality.
The show welcomes us to a dark and mysterious atmosphere: a dingy, dimly lit bar in 1920s Brassai, where it’s characters emerge from a fog-shrouded runway, staggering through in black sheer dresses and drapery, pale-looking chiffon dresses, tightly bound corsets, flamboyant black wool coats, exaggerated silhouettes, and bold colours—an imitation of the attire of the denizens of the Parisian underground.
The corsets were a significant part of the outfit, symbolising their history and how people have used them to augment their bodies both surgically and digitally. Gilliano used a variety of materials, including lace, leather, and feathers, to create these significant looks and to accurately depict the Brassain nightlife.
The show culminated in a series of finale looks that were truly unforgettable, with one model wearing a gown made entirely of feathers while another wore a dress that was covered in crystals. The show closed off with Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie donning a pale dress, complete with an elaborate corset and a transparent cover top.
The highlight of the Maison Margiela Spring Couture Collection was undoubtedly the porcelain-like makeup looks created by the iconic Pat McGrath. McGrath’s genius captured the caricature Gilliano tried to recreate, also showing the essence of the 1920s Brassai culture that inspired the collection, reminiscing about the era when designers made miniature versions of their collections on dolls to display to the general public.
To achieve this unique look, McGrath layered a diluted peel-off gel mask with an airbrush, creating a flawless, doll-like finish. McGrath’s work was praised by critics and fashionistas alike, and it is sure to be remembered as one of the most iconic makeup looks. It set off ripples across the internet, inspiring makeup influencers and artists to attempt to recreate the look, resulting in different stunning imitations.
The Maison Margiela Spring Couture Collection shows the power of fashion as an art form. And would be remembered for years to come as a truly significant moment in fashion history. Truly avant-garde.
