Menswear’s Rise: From Side Art to the Main Stage of Global Fashion
For decades, menswear was a quiet, often underemphasised part of fashion. It was mostly defined by structure, uniformity, and restraint. For the majority of the time, it remained largely unchanged while women’s fashion embraced transformation and fantasy. Yet, in the past century, this area of design and production has seen some of the largest and most shocking innovations in fashion. Today, menswear shares the stage with womenswear.
The modern idea of menswear began in the 19th century with the rise of London’s Savile Row. Savile Row shaped what we now understand as the suit. The suit became and remains the symbol of Western masculinity. The original suit featured structured shoulders, sharp lapels, and a palette that spoke of authority. For more than a hundred years, the uniform remained unchanged.
The 1950s introduced a new energy, a move away from rigidity as Italian designers like Armani softened the suit, replacing stiff wool with fluid fabrics that allowed for movement.
Giorgio Armani at the Armani Archivio. Photographed by Krista Schlueter.
By the 1960s and 70s, youth culture challenged every tradition, rebelling from music to dress. Various subcultures emerged, each using fashion as a form of resistance. On stage, artists like David Bowie, Prince, and Michael Jackson introduced new fashion trends in their performances. Their use of makeup, metallic blouses, sequined suits, and heeled boots caused a shift in how pop culture displayed masculinity.
Bowie at The Marquee in 1973 for The 1980 Floor Show by Terry O’Neill.
Michael Jackson
Prince
Then came the rise of streetwear; what began in American subcultures evolved into the uniform of a generation. The hoodie and sneaker went from casual wear to symbols of luxury, with brands such as Supreme, Off-White, and A Bathing Ape merging the exclusivity of the runway with the comfort of streetwear.
Supreme Fall/Winter 2025
A Bathing Ape
“State of Resistance” – Off-White Fall/Winter 2025. Photographed by Jean Marques and Zoë Joubert
In Europe, heritage houses like Dior, Gucci, and Loewe have introduced a level of softness to their designs. Beyond the West, menswear has made its own strides.
In Japan, Yamamoto’s brand, Yohji Yamamoto, and Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons influenced an entire generation of designers with their architectural minimalism.
“POUR HOMMES”– Yohjii Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 2025. Photographed by TAKAY
“Homme Plus” COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2016
In Africa, creatives such as Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture and Rich Mnisi have built collections of cultural storytelling, expanding what global audiences expect from menswear.
Caarlos Gabriel in Look 23 of Orange Culture’s Collection 001, 2025 Photographed by Lennart Sydney Kofi
Rich Mnisi
Fashion’s definition of masculinity has evolved alongside these changes. The runways now showcase skirts paired with blazers and sequins on suits. The reinvention of menswear has proved to be more than just a phase, as designers continue to discuss, challenge, and celebrate masculinity.
