Softness Is Resistance: Orange Culture & the Politics of Nigerian Menswear

When Adebayo Oke-Lawal founded Orange Culture in 2011, he wasn’t just launching a fashion brand, he was opening a conversation. In a country where masculinity is often defined by stoicism and strength, Orange Culture stands out by centering vulnerability, emotion, and fluid expression. Over a decade later, the Lagos based label continues to challenge norms, one collection at a time.

More Than a Label

Orange Culture describes itself not merely as a menswear brand, but as a “movement” rooted in self expression and identity. From the start, Oke-Lawal aimed to create clothes for men who didn’t fit neatly into conventional molds, men who were expressive, complex, and unafraid of softness.

The silhouettes are deliberately androgynous. Think flowing tunics, sheer fabrics, blush tones, silk trousers, and garments embroidered with handwritten confessions or Yoruba proverbs. The brand’s DNA borrows from traditional Nigerian tailoring agbadas, wrappers, bùbás but updates them with unexpected fabrics and modern structure. The result is a distinct aesthetic that blends heritage and innovation, masculinity and emotion.

From Lagos to the World

Oke-Lawal started Orange Culture with just 20,000 naira and a deep conviction that Nigerian fashion could hold space for vulnerability. In 2013, the brand debuted at Lagos Fashion Week. Just a year later, it was shortlisted for the prestigious LVMH Prize, putting it on the global radar.

Since then, Orange Culture has showcased at New York Fashion Week and been stocked by retailers such as Selfridges, Browns, and ASOS. It has also received coverage from international media including Vogue, i-D, Business of Fashion, and The New York Times.

Despite this acclaim, the brand remains proudly rooted in Lagos. Every garment is designed and produced locally, often in small batches, using ethically sourced fabrics. Oke-Lawal continues to base the brand’s storytelling in Nigerian realities family dynamics, societal expectations, queer identity, and emotional trauma.

Mentorship & Mental Health

Orange Culture is about more than just fashion. In 2020, Oke-Lawal launched the Orangementorship program, designed to support and guide aspiring African creatives, especially those without access to traditional fashion education. The initiative has featured workshops, industry panels, regular job alerts and creative development sessions.

The brand is also vocal about mental health. In interviews and public talks, Oke-Lawal frequently discusses how childhood bullying, toxic masculinity, and the pressure to conform shaped his identity. By creating designs that express emotional complexity, he encourages a broader conversation about mental wellness among Nigerian men.

Fashion With Purpose

While Orange Culture’s designs have sometimes drawn criticism for being “un-African” or “too feminine,” Oke-Lawal has stood firm. For him, pushing boundaries is the point. In a society where vulnerability in men is often discouraged, even a silk blouse becomes a subtle act of defiance.

As younger designers across Nigeria and Africa increasingly play with gender norms, soft tailoring, and emotional storytelling, Orange Culture’s influence is undeniable. It laid the groundwork for a new kind of African masculinity, one that embraces colour, fluidity, and complexity without shame.

The Future of Soft Power

Orange Culture continues to evolve, with new collections, international stockists, and growing global recognition. But its ethos remains the same: fashion is a tool for change. Whether through mentorship, advocacy, or sheer artistry, Oke-Lawal is proving that softness isn’t weakness, it’s resistance.

All photos sourced from @orangecultureng on Instagram

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