Some Captivating Moments from Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW ’24
Dior
Kim Jones, inspired by his uncle, the sensational ex-ballet dancer and photographer Colin Jones, pirouetted into the fashion scene with a dazzling menswear collection. Drawing inspiration from Colin’s captivating photos of Rudolf Nureyev, the runway transformed into a balletic spectacle. Tights, ballet pumps, and turban hats straight out of the Diaghilev era (courtesy of the fabulous Stephen Jones) twirled their way into the limelight.
The showstopper? Slim tailoring and wide-leg A-line shorts, stealing the spotlight with their dance-worthy silhouettes. But wait, there’s more! The collection had a double act: introducing the world to the first-ever menswear haute couture collection. Cue the gasps! This second act focused on exquisite embellishments that took a bow to a 1950 Debussy dress from the archives.
Amiri
Amiri pays homage to classic Hollywood by infusing the spirit of skateparks in Los Angeles. The collection seamlessly blends traditional 1950s tuxedos with casually draped, thrifted 1990s ensembles adorned with a generous sprinkle of embellishments. Noteworthy trend alert: sparkling suits are set to make a significant statement in the upcoming season. Drawing inspiration from the opulent interiors of LA’s historic movie theaters, characterized by plush velvet seating and drapes, the color palette harks back to a bygone era of glamour, featuring tones such as champagne, teal, burgundy, and blush. Double-breasted silhouettes were reimagined with elongated forms, softened shoulders, and cropped blazers, while shirts were casually left unbuttoned but neatly tucked in over vests. High-waisted trousers completed the look, gracefully pooling over trainers for a touch of modernity.
Valentino
Photograph: PR IMAGE
Valentino’s AW24 menswear collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli confronted toxic masculinity, transforming the foundational elements of men’s fashion, including the use of the color blue and the traditional suit. Drawing inspiration from haute couture techniques in womenswear, Piccioli aimed to infuse a softer touch into conventional tailoring, giving the silhouette a more rounded and mature appearance. The outcome was a collection that exuded a refined and wearable aesthetic, featuring shirts and ties paired with vibrant roll necks underneath. Notably, a standout piece was the sky blue full-length duffel coat.
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner drew inspiration for her Autumn/Winter 2024 collection from a recent research collaboration with Howard University in Washington DC. The collection is particularly influenced by 1990s yearbooks showcasing hip-hop performances during homecoming events. The athletic silhouettes in the collection pay homage to Howard’s sporting legacy, featuring varsity blousons, satin baseball jerseys, and collegiate tailoring with practical utility pockets. The continued successful partnership between Wales Bonner, Adidas, and Anderson & Sheppard of Savile Row is evident, with half of the front row donning her reinterpretation of Adidas Sambas. The live performance during the show was delivered by American rapper Yasiin Bey.
Loewe
Loewe’s runway was adorned with digital stained-glass windows featuring video artworks featuring brand ambassadors like Jamie Dornan and Josh O’Connor. Renowned artist Richard Hawkins’ paintings were replicated on various garments, ranging from coats and trousers to bags. In the accompanying show notes, designer Jonathan Anderson described the collection as an “algorithm of masculinity.” The ensembles exuded a sense of haste, with one coat incorporating hanging T-shirts as though hastily gathered from a bedroom floor. Some looks seamlessly combined multiple pieces, with socks affixed to shoes and pants.
