The Evolution of Black Dandyism: From Harlem to the Met Gala Steps – A History of Tailored Black Style
This year’s Met Gala, themed “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, pays homage to Black dandyism, a sartorial tradition that intertwines elegance with resistance. Rooted in the African diaspora, Black dandyism has long served as a powerful tool for self expression and social commentary.
Harlem Renaissance: The Birth of Black Dandyism
Langston Hughes, one of the most prominent figures of the Harlem Renaissance, whose work gave voice to the Black experience in America. Image credit: Wikimedia Commons.
In the early 20th century, amidst the jazz, art, and literature of the Harlem Renaissance, Black dandyism emerged as a form of self expression and resistance. The term “dandy” itself originally referred to a fashionable man who paid great attention to his appearance. However, in Harlem, this concept was taken to new heights, with Black men using their clothing as a tool to assert their dignity and resist the prevailing narratives that often cast them as inferior or marginalized.
Figures like Langston Hughes and Zora Neale Hurston immortalized the dandy in their works, portraying people who not only embodied refinement but also carried a sense of defiance. The Black dandy wasn’t just about elegance, it was a rejection of societal norms and an embrace of a self made identity that existed outside of mainstream expectations. Stylish suits, sharp hats, and perfectly polished shoes became symbolic armor in the face of racial oppression, broadcasting pride in one’s heritage and individuality.
The Influence of Jazz and Music Icons
Josephine Baker, renowned entertainer and civil rights activist, known for her influence in both performance and political spheres. (Photo Credit: UNM Division for Equity and Inclusion)
As jazz gained prominence, so did the visibility of Black dandyism. Icons such as Duke Ellington and Josephine Baker utilized fashion to complement their musical artistry, blending European tailoring with African American ingenuity. Their ensembles were not mere attire but statements of cultural pride and individuality.
This period marked the golden age of Black dandyism, with fashion becoming intertwined with culture in ways that had never been seen before. The jazz scene was a stage where the Black dandy could perform both musically and sartorially, with every note of music paired with a precisely crafted outfit. The vibrant suits, feathered accessories, and sharp tailoring became a physical manifestation of the boldness and creativity of Black musicians.
The Met Gala: Black Dandyism on the World Stage
The 2025 Met Gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” curated by Monica L. Miller, delves into the historical and cultural significance of Black dandyism. Drawing inspiration from Miller’s book “Slaves to Fashion”, the exhibition showcases how Black individuals have used style to navigate and challenge societal structures. The gala’s dress code, “Tailored for You,” invites attendees to interpret this legacy through personal expression, emphasizing the enduring relevance of Black dandyism in contemporary fashion.
Michael Henry Adams, Abdou Ndoye, Craig Shimirimana, Von Penn Jr, Dandy Wellington, Grailing King, Lamine Seck, Serigne Sene, and Iké Udé photographed by Tyler Mitchell (@tylersphotos), The Dinner Party, 2025. Via Instagram @tylerphotos
As we look to the future, the influence of Black dandyism is more important than ever. It serves as a living testament to the resilience, creativity, and style of Black culture. Whether on the Met steps, in the streets of Harlem, or at a high-fashion runway show, Black dandyism remains an evolving symbol of pride, power, and elegance.
