The Archive and the Algorithm: Who Gets to Tell Africa’s Style Story?
African fashion has always carried the weight of history, culture, and identity, but in today’s digital world, the question of who documents and amplifies these stories has never been more pressing. As archives expand beyond physical collections and algorithms shape what the world sees online, the responsibility of platforms, brands, and creators in preserving authentic narratives grows even heavier.
Digital Storytelling and the New Gatekeepers
The rise of online fashion media, streaming platforms, and social networks has made storytelling more accessible than ever. Yet, algorithms often prioritize virality over depth, putting heritage rich content at risk of being sidelined. For example, social media platforms like TikTok have amplified African designers such as LVMH Prize finalist Bubu Ogisi, but her complex work in material innovation is often reduced to short, surface level clips. The challenge lies in ensuring that the nuance of African creativity isn’t lost in translation when filtered through global digital platforms.
Archives as Cultural Infrastructure
Across the continent, institutions and independent projects are stepping in to build lasting repositories of Africa’s style history. The Victoria and Albert Museum’s “Africa Fashion” exhibition (2022–2023) offered a global stage for designers like the late Kofi Ansah and Nkwo Onwuka, while homegrown projects such as the African Fashion Research Institute (AFRI) in South Africa are ensuring that documentation remains locally grounded. These efforts highlight that archives are not just about nostalgia; they’re tools for future designers, researchers, and cultural workers to draw from.
The Responsibility of Brands and Creators
African brands are increasingly aware of their role as custodians of heritage. Labels like Lisa Folawiyo Studio and Sindiso Khumalo are intentional about embedding cultural narratives in their collections while also archiving their work for longevity. Beyond fashion houses, digital platforms like Cultural Intellectual Property Rights Initiative (CIPRI) are advocating for protection of indigenous knowledge in fashion, ensuring that local artisans and traditions are not just showcased but credited and safeguarded.
Shaping Authentic Narratives for Global Audiences
As African fashion gains visibility on international stages. From Lagos Fashion Week’s collaboration with Copenhagen Fashion Week to showcases at Paris Fashion Week featuring brands like Thebe Magugu, the way stories are told online becomes just as important as the garments themselves. If narratives are stripped of context, they risk being consumed as fleeting trends rather than as part of a broader cultural renaissance. FashionEVO reflects an alternative: a space where digital storytelling is rooted in context, community, and continuity.
The archive and the algorithm are not opposites but tools that can either reinforce or distort Africa’s style story. The responsibility now lies in how they are used. By balancing heritage preservation with digital innovation, African creatives and platforms can ensure that what is remembered, searched, and shared remains true to its origins.
The FashionEVO Summit and Show at Africa Creative Market 2025 is building this balance by spotlighting stories that move beyond spectacle into substance, creating a blueprint for responsible fashion storytelling in the digital era.
Join the conversation at the FashionEVO Summit and Show at Africa Creative Market 2025, September 18, 2025 at Landmark Event Centre, Lagos. Sign up now to be part of the movement.
