The Return of the Tailor: Why Bespoke Fashion Is Back in Demand
Once upon a time, everyone had a tailor.
Not in the luxury sense, but in the everyday, essential one. The neighborhood woman with a foot pedal machine, the uncle who made Christmas kaftans, or the family go to for every wedding weekend and church service. In many African communities, clothing was made for you, not found in malls or shipped in bulk. It was a process, a conversation, a fitting, a memory stitched into fabric.
And now, it seems, that era is quietly making its way back.
From Lagos to Kigali, Nairobi to Accra, the demand for made-to-measure fashion is rising again. And no, it’s not just for aso ebi or bridal wear. Across runways, street style, and social media, bespoke is having a moment and this time, it’s not just about fit. It’s about identity.
A Cultural Reawakening
In the wave of minimalism and fast fashion, personal style became… well, less personal. But with the growing call for sustainability, slow fashion, and cultural pride, African consumers (especially Gen Z and Millennials) are leaning back into bespoke. Tailors are no longer hidden behind market stalls or family names. They’re rebranding as designers, entrepreneurs, and storytellers.
There’s power in having something made for you. Your size, your story, your body. It’s a form of resistance, really, in a world that often pushes conformity. And it’s uniquely African. Because here, tailoring isn’t niche. It’s history.
Fit Is a Political Statement
For many African women (and men), off-the-rack sizing has always been more stressful than satisfying. The rise of bespoke means that curves, height, proportions (all the things mainstream fashion often ignores) are centered.
This resurgence also offers designers the chance to design with clients, not just for them. Think: consultations, custom fabric sourcing, hybrid silhouettes. The tailor of today is equal parts artisan, stylist, and therapist.
And the consumer? They’re no longer passive. They’re choosing lining, adjusting necklines, requesting pockets. They’re co creating their wardrobe.
Beyond Aso Ebi
While custom made still reigns in the bridal and traditional wear spaces, a new wave of made-to-order streetwear, suits, outerwear, and even loungewear is gaining ground. Brands like David Tlale, Emmy Kasbit, Kente Gentlemen, and Fruché have made tailoring feel fresh again, combining old school technique with new world edge.
It’s not unusual now to see young professionals opting for custom power suits or bridesmaids in coordinated made-to-fit pieces that rival international fashion houses. Even online, micro creators are popping up with small batch, made-to-order offerings, ditching mass production for intimacy and craft.
Technology Meets Tradition
Instagram, WhatsApp, and TikTok have become today’s fashion storefronts. Tailors don’t need a shop at Tejuosho or a billboard in Kumasi. All they need is a page, some content, and a responsive DM game. The digital age has made it easier than ever for tailors to build followings, receive virtual measurements, and ship globally.
At the same time, the availability of software like digital pattern makers or AI measurement tools means that the tailoring process is becoming more streamlined. The result? Custom work that’s faster, more precise, and still deeply personal.
A Return, But Not to the Past
Let’s be clear, this isn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. Today’s tailoring scene is louder, prouder, and more experimental than ever before. Mesh fabrics, gender fluid cuts, Afro futurist references, maximalist embroidery. It’s not about playing it safe. It’s about showing up, in every thread, as fully yourself.
And in a world that often feels mass produced, that’s a revolutionary act.
