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Haus of Mclees Presents “RENATUS”: Rooted in Native American Heritage at London Fashion Week

What happens when the self is lost to darkness and must confront its most vulnerable, stripped-back form before it can begin again?

For Haus of Mclees, the answer lies in RENATUS, Latin for reborn. Presented during London Fashion Week, the collection explores the psychological, spiritual and physical journey through darkness towards light, asking what must be surrendered before something new can emerge.

Founded by Swiss and Native American designer Mclees Mantegazza, Haus of Mclees grew from her connection to traditional beadwork and the time she spent with her grandfather on the Wind River Reservation. It was there that she was first introduced to the craft that would

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Today, that influence is expressed through intricate hand-beading, sculptural silhouettes and one-of-one pieces that draw from music, performance, festival culture and Mantegazza’s Native American heritage. In just two years, what began as a one-woman operation has developed into a small atelier in Notting Hill, where a team of designers and artisans work alongside Mantegazza to create the house’s highly detailed garments and accessories.

The concept for RENATUS began with a book Mantegazza created during her master’s degree, which explored the experience of losing oneself to darkness before confronting the most vulnerable version of the self. This became the foundation for a collection centred on surrender, transformation and the possibility of beginning again.

 

A restrained palette of black, white, silver and gold reflects this passage from shadow into light. Exposed silhouettes and sculptural forms reveal the body rather than conceal it, while recycled materials, silk, embellished mesh, embroidery, crystals and semi-precious stones are transformed through intricate hand-beading.

Angelic and religious imagery appears alongside references to Mother Nature, while the recurring spiral becomes a symbol of continuity, return and transformation. Drawing in part from Mantegazza’s Native American heritage, RENATUS considers death not as an ending, but as part of an ongoing cycle of change.

 

Sustainability and craftsmanship remain central to Haus of Mclees. Collections are produced in limited quantities, with many pieces made to order in the brand’s Notting Hill atelier. Recycled, repurposed and second-hand materials are used wherever possible, while the majority of garments are handcrafted by the house’s small team of designers and artisans.

Selected jewellery from Lady Pill Art, created in collaboration with Taylor Papadakis, extends the collection’s exploration of adornment beyond the garments, adding another layer to the visual and symbolic language of RENATUS.

This approach also extends to the women who wear Haus of Mclees. Inclusive sizing, custom orders and made-to-order pieces allow garments to be designed around different bodies and personal expressions. As a Native American-founded label, the house is committed to Indigenous visibility, respectful representation and the preservation of craft through a contemporary fashion lens.

 

Haus of Mclees has already established an international presence, presenting at Miami Swim Week and London Fashion Week, with its work featured in Forbes and Vanity Fair. The brand’s pieces have been worn by artists and performers including Shakira, Bombay Mami, Natasha Diggs and Naïka, reflecting the house’s continuing relationship with music, performance and stagewear.

Looking ahead, Haus of Mclees will showcase during Paris Fashion Week in October 2026 before relocating to Miami in January 2027. The move will mark a new chapter for the house, bringing expanded collections, new ready-to-wear offerings and a major menswear line, while bespoke couture and custom commissions will continue.

Despite its international growth, Mantegazza intends to retain the intimacy, individuality and hand-crafted spirit of the atelier that has shaped Haus of Mclees from the beginning.

With **RENATUS**, Haus of Mclees considers what it means to begin again. To bloom again, something within us must first be willing to die.

Mclees Mantegazza would like to extend special thanks to her team:

Brent Heighton (Manager and assistant beadwork designer), Coffee Lum (Assistant Designer), Ariel Chow (Assistant Designer), and Bella Conner (Design Intern).

CREDITS

PRODUCTION

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SHOW PRODUCTION

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CATWALK IMAGES

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MAKE-UP

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